A dripping tap might seem like a minor annoyance, but left unattended it can waste thousands of litres of water a year and push up your water bill. The good news is that most dripping taps are straightforward to fix yourself with basic tools and a little know-how. This guide walks you through the common causes, what you’ll need, and a step-by-step repair process.
What Causes a Dripping Tap?
Understanding the root cause is the first step to a lasting fix. The most common culprits are:
Worn Washers
The washer is a small rubber disc that presses against the valve seat every time you turn the tap off. Over time, the friction causes it to wear down, harden, or tear — allowing water to seep through even when the tap is fully closed. Worn washers are the most frequent cause of dripping taps in traditional pillar-style taps.
Damaged O-Rings
O-rings are small rubber rings fitted around the tap’s spindle to create a watertight seal. If an O-ring becomes loose, worn, or cracked, you’ll typically notice water dripping from the base of the tap or around the spout rather than from the nozzle. This is especially common in cartridge-style and mixer taps.
Faulty Cartridges
Modern mixer taps often use a ceramic disc cartridge instead of a traditional washer. These cartridges control both the flow and temperature of water. When a cartridge cracks or its internal ceramic discs become misaligned, the tap will drip or fail to shut off completely. Replacing the cartridge is usually the most effective solution.
Tools and Materials You’ll Need
Before you start, gather the following items:
- Adjustable spanner or basin wrench
- Flat-head and cross-head screwdrivers
- Replacement washer, O-ring, or cartridge (match to your tap model)
- Plumber’s grease (silicone-based)
- A cloth or small towel
- A small bowl or bucket to catch residual water
Tip: Take the old washer or cartridge to your local plumbers’ merchant or DIY store to ensure you buy an exact match.
Step-by-Step Guide to Fixing a Dripping Tap
Step 1 – Turn Off the Water Supply
Locate the isolation valve on the supply pipe beneath the sink or basin and turn it clockwise until it stops. If there is no isolation valve, turn off the water at your home’s main stopcock, usually found under the kitchen sink. Open the tap fully to release any remaining pressure and drain the water from the pipe.
Step 2 – Remove the Tap Handle
Prise off the decorative cap on top of the tap handle (usually marked H or C) using a flat-head screwdriver. Underneath you’ll find a retaining screw — remove it and lift the handle straight off. If it’s stiff, gently wiggle it rather than forcing it.
Step 3 – Unscrew the Packing Nut and Remove the Headgear
Use your adjustable spanner to loosen and remove the packing nut (the large hexagonal nut beneath the handle). Once removed, you can pull out the headgear — the internal mechanism of the tap. Place a cloth around the tap body to protect the chrome finish from the spanner jaws.
Step 4 – Replace the Washer, O-Ring, or Cartridge
Inspect the headgear carefully. If you have a traditional tap, you’ll see the rubber washer held in place by a small brass nut at the bottom of the spindle — unscrew it, remove the old washer, and press the new one firmly into place. If you spot a worn O-ring on the spindle, roll it off and replace it with a matching new one, applying a thin coat of silicone grease. For cartridge taps, simply pull out the old cartridge and insert the new one, ensuring it’s oriented correctly.
Step 5 – Reassemble the Tap
Reinsert the headgear and hand-tighten the packing nut before finishing with the spanner — avoid overtightening, as this can crack the tap body. Reattach the handle, replace the retaining screw, and press the decorative cap back into position.
Step 6 – Restore the Water Supply and Test
Slowly reopen the isolation valve or main stopcock. Turn the tap on and off a few times to check the repair. Watch for any leaks around the base or spout. If the drip has stopped and there are no new leaks, the job is done.
When to Call a Professional Plumber
While many dripping taps are a straightforward DIY fix, there are situations where it’s best to call in a local, qualified plumber:
- The tap continues to drip after you’ve replaced the washer or cartridge
- The valve seat inside the tap body is visibly corroded or pitted
- You cannot locate or turn off the water supply
- The tap body or pipework shows signs of corrosion or damage
- You’re not confident working with plumbing and want peace of mind
A local, qualified plumber can diagnose the issue quickly, source the correct parts, and ensure the repair complies with the Water Supply (Water Fittings) Regulations 1999, which govern plumbing work in England and Wales (with equivalent regulations applying in Scotland and Northern Ireland). For added assurance, look for a plumber who is a member of the Chartered Institute of Plumbing and Heating Engineering (CIPHE) or another recognised trade body. It’s always better to act sooner rather than later — a persistent drip can cause water damage, damp, and significantly higher water bills over time.
